The Pilgrim Routes to Santiago
de Compostela
Which lie Along the Coast
or
Through the Mountains of Northern Spain
The Website of Eric
Walker
A Santiago Pilgrim
and
Member of the Confraternity of Saint James
The most popular route to Santiago,theCamino Francés, will
certainly provide you with an experience that will stay with you for the rest
of your life, this is the one that many people take for their first pilgrimage
and is well documented. Due to its increasing popularity however it can be difficult
to find accommodation in many of the refuges and albergues at the height of
the season.
For those who have already completed one pilgrimage to Santiago
by the more usual "Camino
Francés",
or for those who prefer a quieter, more contemplative journey there are alternative
routes to the shrine of Saint James. Many of these are in the north of Spain
and have much to offer.
The best way to plan such a journey
would be first of all to contact the Confraternity
of SaintJames in London and obtain a copy of their introductory booklet,
"Pilgrim Guides to Spain No.4, Los Caminos Del Norte".
This publication shows the position of the major routes, giving a brief description
of each one..
As the infrastructure for
accommodation and route marking is not, as yet, so well developed on some sections,
as it is along that more popular way through Burgos and León you should be prepared
to be flexible and at times a little more resourceful if this is your first
attempt atWalking,
Riding or Cycling to Santiago. Having said this, the Asturian authorities provided
a chain of 22 refugios in time for the Holy Year of 1999. There are also refugios
in Cantabria and the Province of Lugo. The situation is improving all the time
Membership of the Confraternity
provides the potential traveller with a free Pilgrim's Record or Passport,
which gives access to those Pilgrim Hostels (Refugios/Albergues) which do exist
in the north, as well giving access to many other aids and advantages.
Retired as Design and Technology Master at the Bradford
Grammar School in West Yorkshire.
July 5th 1994
Received my first Compostela in Santiago after cycling
from Auxerre in France, following the route through Vézelay, Nevers, Limoges,
Perigueux and Orthez to Saint Jean Pied de Port. From Saint Jean over the
Pyrenees and along the Camino Francés to Santiago.
September 21st 1995
Received my second Compostela after cycling from Santander,
following the Ruta de la Costa to Villaviciosa and then turning inland to
Oviedo. This was so that I could go through the mountains, along the Ruta
del Interior (Ruta Primitiva), to Lugo, joining the main Camino at Portomarin.
This journey came about as a result of my increasing interest in the routes
which English pilgrims might have followed as they journeyed to Santiago.
September 7th 1997
Received my third Compostela, starting again at Santander.
After spending some time exploring the different routes through Trasmeira
I then cycled the Ruta de la Costa, in the reverse direction, as far as Irún
and turned south-west. From Irún I followed the Tunnel Route to Vitoria, joining
the Camino Francés at Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
August 16th 1998
Started my fourth journey to Santiago, this time from
Gijón. I walked via Avilés, Soto del Barco and Cudillero to Soto de Luiña
August 27th 1999
Started from Avilés, re-checking some of the other
alternative routes and then started again properly at Cudillero. I followed
the low-level route (Las Ballotas), along the coast through Cadavedo, Luarca,
Navia, Porcia, La Caridad and Tapia de Casariego to Ribadeo.
August 22nd 2000
Received my fourth Compostela after completing the
journey from Gijón, which I started in 1998. Walked from Ribadeo via Vilanova
de Lourenza, Mondoñedo, Abadin, Vilalba, Baamonde, Miraz, Sobrado dos Monxes,
Arzua and Arca.
July 5th 2001
Started walking in Hendaye (Hendaia) in France and
then followed the Ruta de la Costa through Fuenterrabia (Hondarribia), Pasajes
(Pasaia), San Sebastian (Donastia), Orio, Zarauz (Zarautz), Zumaya (Zumaia)and
Deva (Deba) to Motrico (Mutriku). This was to check for any changes to the
route since 1997.
July 17th 2002
Started fromZumaya (Zumaia) and followed the whole
of the Ruta de la Costa as far as Gijón. This was to check for any
changes since 1997 , to follow the newly waymarked routes that are described
in the Cantabrian guide book 'Cantabria y el Camino de Santiago' and
find the places where new road building is affecting the route.
July 1st 2003
Started in Gijón and then first of all back-tracked
to Peón to check again the approach route to Gijón. From Gijón
I followed the coastal route again but took the alternative route from Porcía
and travelled via Vegadeo and Santiago de Abres before re-joining the main
route in Vilanova de Lorenzo. I reached Santiago to gain Compostela number
five on Friday July 11th.
August 5th 2004
Started in Ribadesella and then followed the coastal
route again, but checking more carefully those sections of the route where
I had found some difficulty in route-finding in previous visits. Travelled
via Colunga, Sebrayo, Villaviciosa and the monastery of Valdediós to
Oviedo. From Oviedo I followed the Camino Primitivo to Lugo, staying at the
Albergues in San Juan de Villapañada (Grado), Salas, Tineo, Peñaseita
(Pola de Allande), Grandas de Salime, Cadavo and Lugo.
June 11th 2005
Re-started in Castroverde (Camino Primitivo) at the
point where I left off last year and walked to Lugo with an overnight at Moreira.
On the advice of the hospitalero in Lugo I decided to transfer to the Camino
Francés as I had injured my back in a fall and the section to Melide
(42 km without an albergue) would be too much.
Taking the bus to Sarria I started from there on June 12th, staying at Portomarin,
Palas de Rey, Melide, and Ribadiso, reaching Santiago de Compostela on June
20th and Compostela number 6.
The rest of June was spent in checking sections of the Camino del Norte between
Baamonde and Miraz, Vegadeo and Santiago de Abres, Lezama and Bilbao Muskiz.and
Ontón.
June 14th 2006
Cycled from Santander to Piñeres de Pria to
check that the Albergue there was open and what facilities were available
in the area.
Taking the FEVE and bus to Villaviciosa I started from there on June 16th,
staying 2 days at Valdediós to see how the large triangular junction
of new motorways had affected the Caminos in that area.
I reached Oviedo after checking the Albergue in La Vega de Sariego and the
route between Pola de Siero and El Berrón.
The rest of June was spent in checking the Camino
del Norte for roadworks between Ribadeo and Miraz, and the Camino Primitivo
between Castroverde and Melide.
I reached Santiago de Compostela, probably for my last visit on, Sunday 25
th June.
The Web Site of the European Bike Express.
This site gives details of the superb coach services which they
provide; the easiest way for cycling pilgrims to get to the South
of France or the Pyrenees.
This is a Spanish Web Site with lots of
useful information and comment about the Camino de Santiago. Unusually
it also carries information about some of the other routes in the
north of Spain.
This is a Spanish Web Site with lots of
useful information and comment about the Camino de Santiago. Unusually
it also carries information about all of the other routes in the
north of Spain..
A very good Spanish site, with a version
in English, about all aspects of the pilgimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Some of the information about the line which the Camino takes in
certain places is out-of-date.
